Untitled Document


	Rather you love Vintage, Antiques, Country, Modern, Tag-Sale make overs, or High-end plastics, it is ultimately your home. You need it to be Functional, Comfortable, and Beautiful. These all mean different things to different people. Though, myself, I have 'lived' in 1955 for a year and still am holding fast to much of my Vintage Lifestyle, I do not live in a completely recreated 1950's house, but then again those in the 1950's did not either. They had Grannies old sofa, or mother's china. Maybe they bought a set during the war, to save for their home when Johhny came marching home. Homes, I feel, should feel comfortable and lovely but never over decorated. I like things to have a place and purpose, but I don't think one need to think every aspect of a house needs to match or be exactly the same period. A home is a collection of Hopes, Dreams, and Realities. That means you may hope for a nicer sofa, but you will have the reality of recovering what you have. You might dream about a particular style or place you love and until you can have that place, you can create that Dream in your home. I think Form should follow Function. Often, somethings beauty is in its utility. Even an overstuffed or over ornate chair has the utility of seating and also Ambience. For me Ambience is a Utility, as it allows you to Feel at Home or Good while you are around it.
General Layout Requirements at least one work triangle is in place Total distance between points does not exceed 26' Traffic patterns do not interfere with triangle Island/peninsula counters do not interfere with Triangle. Counter Space Requirements At least 36" in the mix/prep center. At least 18" on one side and 24" on other side of sink. At least 9" on one side and 15" on the other side of the cooktop. At least 15" on one side of a built-in oven or 15" of space on an island counter that is no more than 48" from the front of the oven. At least 15" on the opening side of the refrigerator or 15" of space on an island counter that is no more than 48" from the front of the refrigerator. Appliance Space and Planning Requirements Dishwasher within 36" of sink. Sufficient space between dishwasher and adjacent counters, other appliances and cabinets to allow for loading and unloading (21" standing space recommended). Bottom of microwave placed between counter and eye-level (approx. 24" to 48" off floor) with adjacent counter top work area. Adequate ventilation available. Other Space and Planning Requirements At least 12" - 19" of leg room beneath eating areas in counters, peninsulas, islands and bars Sufficient, accessible storage available. Aisles wide enough for two people to pass at least 48" in food prep areas at least 36" between facing cabinets. Good overall lighting and task lighting at sink, range and work areas -National Kitchen and Bath Association	The heart of the Home. The place we are told to spend the most money to get the greatest return on investment. The room where even those who are not Vintage minded, often turn to Vintage ideas. The Kitchen. The Hub of the house. The Work center. I often refer to my Kitchen as my Chef's Studio, as I find myself often up to my elbows in muck and dirty and not caring, like an artist in their studio, and after the flurry of creativity, I have a piece of edible art. Whatever it is or means to you, your kitchen is probably the FIRST place you think of when you consider remodel/redecorate/re-do. Rather you crave an atomic modern kitchen of steel, aluminum, and plastic or an Early American kitchen, filled with pine cabinets and darling 'spice racks', the 1950's was the beginning of what we now take for granted as 'Kitchen Design'. Efficiency, built-ins, counter space, these all were new and wonderful ideas in the 1950's and they certainly have stuck. Then, it was mainly a mixture of the increase in production from the war ready to make anything your 'heart desires' mixed with the return to the home for women. At this point in history, the maid was all but vanishing from the American Middle Class. Even as late as the 1940's it could be a certain element to have a 'maids room and bath' off the kitchen, which was designed to be small and functional with a breakfast room and dining room separate from the work space. You may have helped out, but the kitchen was left 'outback' as a service area. After the war, that changed and women were returning to the hearth by the thousands, so with the efficiency and productivity of the production of war times and the almost 'military like discipline' in which one planned to rule the home headquarters, the modern kitchen was born.
Poorman's Granite Countertops. Using granite floor tiles A common way to get granite onto your coutertops without paying for a custom slab job, is to use 3/8″ thick, 12″ square granite flooring tiles, which you can install just like you would install any other tile: Install a layer of cement tile substrate such as Wonderboard, or Hardi-backer. Use a thinset mortar to set the tiles in place Apply grout to fill the gaps between tiles. Seal the stone/grout But there are a few common mistakes to watch out for when using granite floor tiles on your countertop, Iv’e seen plenty of installations that looked a little, er, less than harmonious. Some people might like the patchwork look, but if what you are looking for is a more seamless effect, there are a couple of things that you can do to help out: Butt up the tiles to minimize the grout lines, and use a grout that is the same color as the tiles Orient the grain. Even granite tiles that don’t seem to have an apparent grain actually do, and if you line them all up in the same direction, it looks much better. Choose a stone without strong veins or lines. Note: in these photographs, you don’t see the cement underlayment because, well, I didn’t use any for this little cabinet because I didnt feel like going to the store. But you MUST use it. Edging For the counter top edge, I found this 1/4 round extruded aluminum, (or aluminium for you Brits) edging material that I believe is intended for transitioning tile floors to carpet floors. This edging has a lip on one side that extends below the tile. Install this stuff with nails or screws all around the edges of the counter for a durable and handsome edge. You can cover the exposed countertop sides with any standard bullnose molding. 1-1/2 inch wide hardwood with a chamfored top edge is nice, but I chose this extruded aluminum trim of the type used in commercial dining tables. This edging has a T profile, and installed by first cutting a slot around the edge of the countertop with a slot-cutting router bit, then pressing the molding into place. Finally, install the tile with any thinset mortar, then grout. Apply an aqueous sealer to keep the stone from absorbing stains and such, and BAM! you have a nice granite kitchen, and you just saved $9,500. -Thanks to FINKBILT for this tutorial.
Bottom image or materials down here

Rather you love Vintage, Antiques, Country, Modern, Tag-Sale make overs, or High-end plastics, it is ultimately your home. You need it to be Functional, Comfortable, and Beautiful. These all mean different things to different people. Though, myself, I have 'lived' in 1955 for a year and still am holding fast to much of my Vintage Lifestyle, I do not live in a completely recreated 1950's house, but then again those in the 1950's did not either. They had Grannies old sofa, or mother's china. Maybe they bought a set during the war, to save for their home when Johhny came marching home. Homes, I feel, should feel comfortable and lovely but never over decorated. I like things to have a place and purpose, but I don't think one need to think every aspect of a house needs to match or be exactly the same period. A home is a collection of Hopes, Dreams, and Realities. That means you may hope for a nicer sofa, but you will have the reality of recovering what you have. You might dream about a particular style or place you love and until you can have that place, you can create that Dream in your home.

I think Form should follow Function. Often, somethings beauty is in its utility. Even an overstuffed or over ornate chair has the utility of seating and also Ambience. For me Ambience is a Utility, as it allows you to Feel at Home or Good while you are around it.

General Layout Requirements

at least one work triangle is in place
Total distance between points does not exceed 26'
Traffic patterns do not interfere with triangle
Island/peninsula counters do not interfere with Triangle.

Counter Space Requirements

At least 36" in the mix/prep center.
At least 18" on one side and 24" on other side of sink.
At least 9" on one side and 15" on the other side of the cooktop.
At least 15" on one side of a built-in oven or 15" of space on an island counter that is no more than 48" from the front of the oven.
At least 15" on the opening side of the refrigerator or 15" of space on an island counter that is no more than 48" from the front of the refrigerator.

Appliance Space and Planning Requirements

Dishwasher within 36" of sink.
Sufficient space between dishwasher and adjacent counters, other appliances and cabinets to allow for loading and unloading (21" standing space recommended).
Bottom of microwave placed between counter and eye-level (approx. 24" to 48" off floor) with adjacent counter top work area.
Adequate ventilation available.

Other Space and Planning Requirements

At least 12" - 19" of leg room beneath eating areas in counters, peninsulas, islands and bars
Sufficient, accessible storage available.
Aisles wide enough for two people to pass at least 48" in food prep areas at least 36" between facing cabinets.
Good overall lighting and task lighting at sink, range and work areas

-National Kitchen and Bath Association

The heart of the Home. The place we are told to spend the most money to get the greatest return on investment. The room where even those who are not Vintage minded, often turn to Vintage ideas. The Kitchen. The Hub of the house. The Work center. I often refer to my Kitchen as my Chef's Studio, as I find myself often up to my elbows in muck and dirty and not caring, like an artist in their studio, and after the flurry of creativity, I have a piece of edible art. Whatever it is or means to you, your kitchen is probably the FIRST place you think of when you consider remodel/redecorate/re-do.

Rather you crave an atomic modern kitchen of steel, aluminum, and plastic or an Early American kitchen, filled with pine cabinets and darling 'spice racks', the 1950's was the beginning of what we now take for granted as 'Kitchen Design'. Efficiency, built-ins, counter space, these all were new and wonderful ideas in the 1950's and they certainly have stuck. Then, it was mainly a mixture of the increase in production from the war ready to make anything your 'heart desires' mixed with the return to the home for women.

At this point in history, the maid was all but vanishing from the American Middle Class. Even as late as the 1940's it could be a certain element to have a 'maids room and bath' off the kitchen, which was designed to be small and functional with a breakfast room and dining room separate from the work space. You may have helped out, but the kitchen was left 'outback' as a service area.

After the war, that changed and women were returning to the hearth by the thousands, so with the efficiency and productivity of the production of war times and the almost 'military like discipline' in which one planned to rule the home headquarters, the modern kitchen was born.

Poorman's Granite Countertops.

granite countertops

Using granite floor tiles

A common way to get granite onto your coutertops without paying for a custom slab job, is to use 3/8″ thick, 12″ square granite flooring tiles, which you can install just like you would install any other tile:

Install a layer of cement tile substrate such as Wonderboard, or Hardi-backer.
Use a thinset mortar to set the tiles in place
Apply grout to fill the gaps between tiles.
Seal the stone/grout

But there are a few common mistakes to watch out for when using granite floor tiles on your countertop, Iv’e seen plenty of installations that looked a little, er, less than harmonious.

Some people might like the patchwork look, but if what you are looking for is a more seamless effect, there are a couple of things that you can do to help out:

Butt up the tiles to minimize the grout lines, and use a grout that is the same color as the tiles
Orient the grain. Even granite tiles that don’t seem to have an apparent grain actually do, and if you line them all up in the same direction, it looks much better.
Choose a stone without strong veins or lines.

granite countertops

Note: in these photographs, you don’t see the cement underlayment because, well, I didn’t use any for this little cabinet because I didnt feel like going to the store. But you MUST use it.

Edging

For the counter top edge, I found this 1/4 round extruded aluminum, (or aluminium for you Brits) edging material that I believe is intended for transitioning tile floors to carpet floors. This edging has a lip on one side that extends below the tile. Install this stuff with nails or screws all around the edges of the counter for a durable and handsome edge.

granite countertops

You can cover the exposed countertop sides with any standard bullnose molding. 1-1/2 inch wide hardwood with a chamfored top edge is nice, but I chose this extruded aluminum trim of the type used in commercial dining tables.

granite countertops

This edging has a T profile, and installed by first cutting a slot around the edge of the countertop with a slot-cutting router bit, then pressing the molding into place.

granite countertops

Finally, install the tile with any thinset mortar, then grout. Apply an aqueous sealer to keep the stone from absorbing stains and such, and BAM! you have a nice granite kitchen, and you just saved $9,500.

-Thanks to FINKBILT for this tutorial.

Bottom image or materials down here